Push-Pull Pot Power!
A Push-Pull Pot can add a ton of versatility to your guitar! They are a great way to add a switch, or other cool mods without modifying your guitar too much. You can use them to reverse the phase, split a Humbucker, or trick your guitar out in a fresh way. They can be a little tricky to wrap your head around, but once you get the basics, they are easy to understand.
Table of contents
A Push-Pull Pot, in its most basic definition, is a Potentiometer, attached on top of a Switch.
We refer to the switch as a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) Switch. ‘DPDT’ means the switch has two separate “poles”, or sides to it.
If you’re not familiar with how pots work, we recommend going back to Part 1 and check out our article on pots here.
The Basics of Push-Pull Pots
The Pot
There are two components of a Push-Pull Pot: the Pot and the Switch. Even though they look combined, they are actually separate. As described in our previous article, the Pot is a variable resistor. It has a resistance strip and a sweeper to choose the resistance. Lug 1 is the start of the resistance strip, and Lug 3 is the end. Lug 2, or the middle lug, is the sweeper.
The other part of the Push-Pull pot is the Switch. The DPDT switch has two sides. Side 1 (A – B – C) is entirely independent of Side 2 (D – E – F).
We refer to the center lugs, B and E, as the “common” or inputs of the switch – they stay connected all the time. See below for an illustration of the Commons:
The Switch
There are two separate sides of the switch (hence the ‘double’ in Double Pole, Double Throw). We can call them Side A & Side B. The Selector connects the different terminals on each side. Check it out:
When pushed down, the Selector is selecting the bottom four lugs (B-C-E-F).
- B connects to C
- E connects to F
When pulled up, the Selector slides up and is now selecting the top four lugs (A-B-D-E).
- B connects to A
- E connects to D.
- As you can see, B and E stay connected.
Push Pull Pot Examples
Coil Splitting
Coil Splitting is just one of the many things you can do with a push-pull pot and is a great place to start our understanding of them. You can use Coil Splitting to turn a Humbucker into a Single Coil by sending one of its coils to ground.
For illustration, we drew this out for you below. We used both sides of the switch to illustrate two points:
- It shows how to wire up 3-Conductor and 4-Conductor, and
- It shows that you can tap two separate humbuckers with the same switch, by using both sides.
HOW IT WORKS:
- When the Push-Pull Pot is pushed down, The humbucker is working like normal.
- When the Push-Pull Pot is pulled up, the “Tap” (Red on 3 Conductor, Red, and Green Tied Together on 4-Conductor) is sent to ground, “Shorting out” the coil. The entire Casing of the pot should be grounded, so theoretically, you can ground any wire off of the switch by just running a jumper to the casing.
Partial Coil Splitting
Coil Splitting can sound great on higher output humbuckers, like our Modern P.A.F., and our High Output Humbucker. But what if you have a low-output humbucker, like our Pure P.A.F.? Fear not. You can “Partially Split” the coil, with our Partial Tap Resistor.
How it Works:
When you pull up on the push-pull pot, B connects to A, and your Slug Coil will be sent to ground, only this time, it goes through a resistor. This prevents the whole signal from being grounded by putting a partial short across the coil, instead of a full short. In turn, you’re getting a stronger single-coil sound from your humbucker when split.
PHASE REVERSING
Phase Reversing is a neat little trick when you want to reverse the coil direction of your pickup.
Some find this sonically pleasing, mainly when used with a Blender Pot, which will roll in the pickup’s phase – pretty cool! To do this, you need 2-Conductor Wire. Remember to ground the Shield (Bare). Here’s how to wire this up:
How it Works:
When the switch is in the down position, White connects to White (Terminals E > F), Black connects to Black on Terminals B > C. When pulled up, The phase reverses!
Push-Pull Pot Mods
Two-Tone Caps, One Push-Pull Pot
This mod is pretty cool! With this mod, you can use two different tone caps with one push-pull pot. When pushed down, you can have to say, a .02mfd Cap, and when pulled up, you can have a Fralin Magic Cap, or vice-versa!
How it works:
- The Signal enters the Pot at Lug 2.
- The Sweeper, Lug 2, is connected to one side of the switch, at point E. (This whole thing can be reversed).
- When Pushed Down, the Signal is being sent through Terminal F. When Pulled Up, the Signal is being sent through Terminal D.
- The other side of the switch is Grounded. When you roll the Tone Pot, more of your highs are being sent to Ground, via whichever cap value you choose.
Engage Treble Bleed
Our Fralin Volume Kit is a great Treble Bleed circuit. If you’re not familiar, the Volume Kit keeps your high frequencies intact as you roll the volume down.
Country, Blues, and Rock guitarists love this as it keeps their crisp highs when they roll down the volume. But what if you need more versatility? Here’s how you can engage it by pulling up on the Push-Pull Pot: When pushed down, your volume knob will act like normal – it will bleed treble to ground. Pulling up on your Push Pull Pot sends your signal through the Volume Kit – your guitar keeps its shimmer!
How it works:
- When pushed down, your signal is entering through lug A, but it ends there, as it doesn’t have anywhere to go.
- Pulling up, A > B connect, and E > D are now connected, connecting the Volume Kit to your circuit.
If you want to reverse this, simply move the Connector Wires (two cream wires in the photo above) to Lugs C & F. This will remove the Volume Kit when you pull up.
Bright Switch
The “Bright Switch” is a simple mod that adds a little extra Treble to your signal.
The Bright Switch works by removing your Volume Pot and Tone Pot from your signal path, which always “load” your signal. Mostly, it’s connecting your guitar’s pickups directly to the output jack. It’s a pretty crazy difference – your guitar sounds bigger, brighter, and louder.
How it works:
The Bright Switch has more parts involved, thus it is a bit more complicated. When your Push-Pull pot is down, all the wiring is the same as a Strat or a Tele. The Signal enters Lug 1 of the Volume Pot, and Lug 1 is also connected to the input of the Tone Pot.
When the Push-Pull Pot is down, Lug 3 and the Cap are both connected to Ground. They connect to ground via connecting to terminals C & E of the Push-Pull pot.
When the switch is up, the ground lifts off of the tone pot and the volume pot. This allows your signal to connect directly to the output jack, with no Load.
Note: Pickups and other electronics get grounded to the back of the volume pot, just like normal. The 3rd Lug just isn’t connected.
Series / Parallel Switching For Humbuckers
Changing your humbuckers from Series to Parallel works well for some humbuckers, especially some higher output humbuckers. You can get some of that “Strat Quack,” and it opens up a whole new dimension for your humbucker. To accomplish this mod, you’ll need a humbucker with a 4-conductor lead. Please note that the color codes are for Fralin Humbuckers only.
How it works:
Red connects to green Green when the switch is down. This is a regular “series” humbucker operation. By pulling up on the switch, Red is now connected to White, and Green is now connected to Black. The “hots” connect, and the “starts” connect together – giving you your parallel.
Push-Pull Pot Odds n’ Ends
Before we wrap up, here are a few things we want to clear up.
Notes On Grounding
You can use anywhere on the Pot’s chassis to ground a signal. So, when grounding wire, you can run it to the metal housing that houses the DPDT switch, or the side of the Pot itself. A neat little trick is to ground wire on the bottom tab at the very bottom of the Switch. (See the image at the top of the page to see what we’re talking about here).
CTS Pots
CTS® has a new type of Push-Pull pot, which can make wiring a little easier. CTS made these contact points easier to reach so that you can fit this pot in more guitars. However, if you’re not familiar with how it’s all connected, it can be a little confusing. Here’s what it looks like:
Instead of running your jumper wires to small lugs, you can run them to full-size holes. The order is a little different, but all the concepts are the same.
Well, that’s all for now. I hope that this article has been helpful and informative. We have Push-Pull pots available on our website here. Now, grab some and get to modding!
Comments
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Hey Ty,
Sorry if it wasn’t clear the switch be using the A to switch B the wires get tied and C is ground of pick ups? I just want it coi split/tap the mini hum only. The neck position. Thanks. Jonny.
Jonny, This is a little confusing to read. Can you email me a diagram of what you have going on? I’ll try to diagnose it.
I don’t have it diagrammed out. Lol. That’s why I need help. Can u email me directly? Thanks.
Hey Ty.
Hope is well. I’m redoing a old Kramer. Using a push Pull vol. to control hum single coil. It’s a SSH config with a DPDT where it’s full, off, tap for the bridge Hum. 5 way, 2 tone that I have independently to control neck and middle and one tone control bridge. Neck has. 022 bridge is .047 cap all 1 Meg pots. Because this is my first attempt to wire in a push pull. On the left side I have the top post go to the 5 way switch, the red and white get tied and to second post and then bottom post to ground of the pick up? Or just to the pot it’s self along with all grounds?
Hi,
Thanks for the fantastic article dude. But I still a bit confused. I’ve got a tele with 2 humbuckers and I’d like to be able to split both humbuckers but without adding any switches. Can you help
Thanks
Adam
Hey Adam,
Sure I can take a stab at it. Honestly the best way to split both humbuckers is to add a simple Push Pull Pot. The simplest way to split them is this:
1.) Run your Humbucker’s Tap Lead (Red on 3 Conductor, Red & Green tied together for 4 Conductor) into a common terminal on the switch (Either B or E).
2.) Connect Ground to the Top Terminals – Either A or D of the same side that the leads are connected to, and when you pull up, you’ll split both humbuckers at once.
Note: You can use both sides of the switch for more room. Humbuckers go into Terminal B & E, and Grounds are connected to A and D.
Note 2: This will split both humbuckers at once. If you want separate switches, you’ll need to perform this mod on your Volume Pot AND Tone Pot, with each humbucker going to a separate pot.
Hope this helps!
T
Probably a simple thing I’m asking. I have a 2- humbucker, single volume, single tone, toggle setup. Is it feasible to use push/pull pots to run the pickups independently (like a 2 Volume/2 Tone, toggle setup)? Basically so the neck pickup can be turned down independently and the toggle acts as a kill switch..
Hey Rob,
There’s probably a way to wire this up with Push Pull pots, but you might like to use Concentric Pots instead: 500K Concentric Pots
You can wire the Neck and the Bridge both into that, and have independent volume control over both pickups. You can also do the same with the Tone controls, or, you can use our mod here for two tone caps: Click Here
I hope that helps!
Tyler
Actually, the concentric pot is a easy solution except i want to keep this guitar visually original..only 67 of this model exist.. I think the double cap tone and push/pull volume looks like a great fix.. Again, thank you!
Oh MAN. I was doing some light research because I have an old junk electric that I thought I’d use as my first project to see if I could have a go at wiring pickups and pots and was wondering if there were any cool uses of the push pull for us single coil (strat specifically) players. Boy am I excited to get working on this thing now! I’ll probably start with this hunk of junk and when I’m confident,go to town on my American strat. I saw on someone else’s article the idea of doing all three knobs up as volume and tone knobs for each individual pickup. If I did that,would I still be able to run any of your tips or would I have burned out my options by doing that?id like to do the bright mod and install your volume kit (I’d never heard of that but as a blues player that sounds so groovy) but I’d settle for just being able to do one or the other.
Hi Tyler
Thank you so much for your fast reply and action!
Lennart
Hi Tyler
I have two problems with the drawing and description of the Bright Switch Push/Pull Mod.
The text says “and Lug 2 goes to the input of the Tone Pot”
I see no connection from Lug 2 of the volume pot to the tone pot.
And the text says: “with the Grounded leg of the Cap”.
I see no grounding of the cap.
It’s probably just me being stupid, but could you clarify that?
Kind regards
Lennart
Hey Lennart,
Thanks for catching this! I’ve re-written the explanation for clarity. The diagram is indeed correct.
Tyler
Hi Tyler,
Cool article! Definitely helpful!
I have a 2012 American Deluxe Strat with the SSS configuration and S1 switching. I was planning on swapping out the bridge pickup to a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails mini humbucker, and replace the bridge tone pot with a 500k push pull pot to split the mini humbucker.
Is the above configuration possible if I want to retain the current configurations from the S1 wiring as well? The S1 switch is on the volume pot by default. Hoping you can shed some light on how this can be achieved.
Sure thing, it’s possible. Just coil tap the mini like the diagram in the post, and wire the pot part of it like a tone pot – you’ll be good to go!
I enjoy your articles.Will a treble bleed cap function on a push pull volume pot like it does on a normal pot? Thanks!
Hey Ricky,
Yes it does, with a slight difference. Normally, the Treble Bleed Kit will make your entire guitar slightly brighter as it’s on the whole time. With the Push pull, you can keep it off until you’re ready to use it, keeping your original tone the same.
Tyler
Just to thank you and congratulate you, because this article is great (as well as many others on your website)! I wish the best of luck to Fralin’s team on their business.
Hi,
I have 1 neck humbucher with 4 wires & 1 ground wire and 1 humbucker with 2 wires.
I want to make mod to neck 4 wire humbuker with push-pull pot so that I have the single coil on when pushed down, and humbucker when pulled up.
Please instruct me of :
1. is push/pull pot is instead of volume pot of neck PU ?
2. where I soldier all 4 wires of PU on the push/pull pot ?
3. will turning pot coutnerclock direction decrease volume and clockwise increase volume of PU in both humbucking and single coil mode?
I do no find complete diagram of this mod on your illustrations .
Or do I miss something?
thank you in advance
Zarko
Zarko,
Thanks for your question, and I’ve edited it for clarity.
1.) I’m not sure what you’re asking here – could you clarify?
2.) On a 4-conductor humbucker lead, the outer wires of both the coils need to be tied together. For example, our Red and Green are the ends of both the coils. Tied together, they put the humbucker in series. The only difference between our humbucker diagram and the one you need is the location of the ground. You’d want your ground connection on Lug C, instead of A. That sends the slug coil to ground when pushed down.
3.) Yes, that is how most pots are wired.
Tyler
Thak you for your reply. I actually want coil split on neck PU north coil when push/pull is up, and full humbuker when down. I made a mistake in my first message.
However where do I connect ( hot) wire from neck PU and south start wire and ground wire?
Can you send me complete diagram for this?
Thank you in advance
Best regards
Zarko
How can I make the bright switch without the tone pot, cause I do not use tone in my circuit. By the way, congratulations for this guide! It’s amazing!
Leandro, You can’t complete this mod without some sort of external switch. I’d recommend copying the Switch part of this mod on a DPDT toggle switch instead.
Tyler
So, if I use a push pull volume pot without tone pot, is it possible? Thanks a lot!
Leandro,
You can do this, but it won’t make as much of a difference as removing both – here’s how to do it (bottom of page) https://www.fralinpickups.com/2017/04/23/april-mod-month-bright-switch/
Thanks a lot man! I did yesterday directly, without any pots, basically pickup, a 3 switch toggle directly to jack, just to listen how it sounds, and uow, it sounds amazing! Now, I don’t know if I will use a volume pot again! Thank you very much!
You got it buddy 🙂
Hi!
Cool article.
I have a Les Paul with one 4-conductor humbucker and one 2-conductor humbucker. I guess I need one DPDT pot connected to the 4-conductor to do a phase invert ala Peter Green, so that the two HBs are out of phase with each other. Which pot should this be? Also, can I also do a coil tap or a coil split or anything else cool with the other pot connected to the 4-conductor HB? What are my opportunities here, besides the phase switch? 🙂
Hey Matt,
So, technically you can flip the phase of your humbucker with 2-Conductor (I’m assuming it’s not a Gibson-style braided lead – then you can’t.) But if you have a humbucker that has the shield separated from the coil, then you can flip the phase if it and reverse the coil direction.
That being said, you can certainly coil-tap the 4-Conductor Wire Humbucker by tying the two outside wires (Red and Green in our case) together and sending those to ground. You’ll need a Push/Pull or DPDT switch for both operations, and you’ll need two separate switches.
Tyler
Thanks for the quick answer! I guess I mixed the terminology here: my “2-conductor” is in fact a vintage style braided lead. Guess my only option here is to flip the polarity on the 4-conductor with a push pull pot, and leave the rest as it is? Or can I coiltap the 4-conductor as well as invert its phase with push pull pots both in volume and tone for this humbucker?
Hey Mats,
You can do both – to do so, you’ll need to tie together the Red and Green (our color codes) and send those to the secondary push pull pot (tone, for example) and use our diagram to coil tap it. The Phase reverse would only need the White and Black wires (inside coil wires) to perform this mod.
Basically, decide which pot you would like to perform each function (volume pot push pull for phase reverse, tone push pull for coil tap), then use the White and Black wires for the Phase reverse, and the Red and Green wires for the coil tap. You’ll be able to do both!
I’ve wired two humbuckers each to its own dpdt volume pot. The problem I’m having is that when the pots are pulled to split the coils and 3way toggle is in the middle position, one volume cancels out both split coils rather than just the one it controls when the pots are pushed in. Please help me get independent volume control for the split coils!!!
Chris,
There could be multiple things wrong with this, but my gut is telling me that you have the volume pots wired wrong. I would take this to a local luthier for assistance.
Tyler
Well, I discovered that I had wired the volumes to be dependent on each other so I swapped the output wire from lug 1 to lug 2 on the pots and baddabing! Works perfectly as it should! Thanks!
I figured something was going on there…glad you got it worked out! Happy jamming!
T
Mike,
This is a little strange – was any work performed on your volume pots? Those should be 500K. The Tone controls don’t take a lot of the signal, so you’re going to be good with the 500K there as well.
I would take it back to the luthier and see what he did. Use our diagram here!
I’m very confused. I modded a Les Paul by adding push-pull pots on each of the tones to split the humbuckers. However, when I got the guitar back, it sounded like a blanket was thrown over it, especially on the neck pickup.
It has a 520k measurement, so I’m really confused and bummed. Any ideas?
Hello ,
When doing COIL SPLITTING can the default behaviour be reversed?
Pull Pot is pushed down (feels like engaged ) => single coil
Push Pull Pot is pulled up => (feels like released ) => humbucker
Many thanks
Sure thing it can, Daniele – you have to move the “Ground” Jumper from Terminal “A” on your push Pull to Terminal C. That way, You have a single coil when your push pull is pushed all the way down, and when you pull up, you have a full humbucker as it lifts the ground.
Tyler
I’ve been trying to find a good resource for how these work beyond just a wiring diagram. This is by far the best article I’ve found. The examples are great and your explanations are huge help. Thanks!
We’re glad you find it useful, Brandon – thanks!
Tyler
My current setup is: 4 wire Humbuckers bridge & neck, one tone one volume DPDT pots, one toggle switch. Currently up on volume pot turns neck pickup into a single coil as does tone/bridge. Is there a way to have the volume pot engage both as SC’s, leaving the tone pot free to switch between top & bottom coils on both pups? I don’t want to add any switches, pots, etc..
Carey,
Thanks for your question. Sure you can – you’d just use both sides of the switch. Look on the coil-splitting diagram – you’ll see that one side of the switch is being used with a 4-conductor wire (red and green tied together) and the other side of the switch is being used with 3-conductor wire (red wire only). This illustrates that you can coil split two humbuckers with one switch.
Hope this helps!
Tyler
Can I create the Bright Switch on my bass???
Sure you can. This mod will work for all instruments. You might not tell as much of a difference, although you might tell a lot!
Tyler